"Everyone knows the more you wear pearls, little by little they become real....And isn't it the same with memories?" - The Madwoman of Chaillot

Sunday, March 21, 2010

Bellagio and castello di vezio

Foggy day - rain was expected but never showed up- the alps were shrouded in fog and clouds but the peaks showed through some of the day and that seemed to make them look even taller and almost unbelievably steep.

We decided to take the ferry to Bellagio across the lake. It's a much bigger town with many more shops.   Did some window shopping and walking  - here are a few sights we found interesting...









We found a little spot for lunch at a "wine bar" or enoteca..
Food comments in separate post.
It had a table of 7 people, us and 2 other tables just for wine service. The other table had some interesting characters - Americans of course - they were all related in some way and the one man was obviously the dominant personality. Turns out he's some sort of executive at Apple - as he put it, there's Jobs and the next-in-command and then he's "just under the radar". They shared some of their food with us - they went through 4 courses and several bottles of wine and next were going for facials and spa treatments at their hotel in Bellagio







- we trouped back to our ferry to Varenna and our spa-less little hotel. And not only no spa but no rest - Bill had me hiking up the mountain to the old Castello di Vizeo above Varenna. It's called a 1/4 mile hike but I think that is the change in latitude and longitude without taking into consideration the steep climb!! On a good day the view would be breathtaking but while we didn't get that view, we did get out of breath....



The castle is largely ruined
but there is a large tower you can climb - more steps!












and the escape route in case of attack....







Resting up for dinner now... See my food review for day 1 and 2...

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Food day 1and 2 - for Katie

Mostly for our daughter Katie - and anyone else interested. Day 1 -
Lunch at Bar il Molo





I had Salmon Gnocchi with cream sauce - very tasty although Bill didn't like it as much as I did. The slice of smoked salmon along with it was excellent. Bill had Risotto with asparagus which he thought was very good - the risotto was perfectly prepared.

Dinner at Ristorante La Vista at our hotel - Albergo Milano in Varenna. Great view of the lake and twinkling lights across in Bellagio and other towns. Hotel owner Egidio is waiter and host after retiring as chef recently. The new chef will obviously keep up the fine reputation as his dishes were excellent. Menu is limited as there are only 5-6 tables. We had sea bass with thinly sliced zucchini - just wonderful. Bill also ordered an appetizer dish - octopus croquettes which was tender, tasty and unusual!
Bill's last course was cheese and that was a pear stuffed with fresh soft goat cheese and carmelized nuts - very yummy!







We met two sets of Americans who are staying at our hotel and had a fun conversation at dinner. There was a group of Italians also and when they arrived it got noisier!

Breakfast was typical European cheeses, prosciutto, breads, muffins, granola, yogurt,coffee.

Lunch was in Bellagio, at a very cool but very small wine bar - Enoteca Cava Turacciolo - I had a salmon marinato con costini - marinated salmon on toast (yes, I love salmon) which I loved although it was very simple. Bill had Lasagna a la Bolognese which was good but different according to Bill - however I noted that he ate every bit. We also got a plate of shaved Parma ham donated by the other table of people in the restaurant - more about them in another post. Of course we had wine - Bill had a kind of sparkling red called Bonarda Marchese Adorno and I had a red called Barbera Vigna del Rei which we liked so much we bought a bottle.

Dinner at il Caminetto in Perleda started with a trip up the mountain - they come and pick you up for a crazy ride full of switchbacks....this is the restaurant that gives cooking lessons but we couldn't do that as they don't offer it on weekends.












We were picked up by Chef Moreno at 7:30 and were driven back at 10:30. We asked for his recommendation and he suggested we order one of his offerings (and he picked forvus) of each course of licsl specialties and share it and that was perfect and kept the cost reasonable.
First was three homemade pates and toast. Then prosciutto and salami - and we were introduced to the people at the next table as "this is the butcher who made the salami and meats". They loved it when we told them as we left that the meats were "molto bene".






They were served with a bit of marinated green tomato, dried red tomato and a small onion all of which I loved.

Next was the primi or pasta course of risotto - not sure how that was prepared (what the flavor was) but very tasty.






last was Rouston Negaa - veal escallopes with sage and white wine, tender and tasty with potatoes and green beans.






We were too full for dessert but he brought us a very refreshing after dinner drink of limoncella.

Oh and wine was another local rossi vino (red wine) and good - Rossi di Valtellina 2007.

So, Katie, no gelato yet and in fact too full for dessert!

Now it is bedtime and tomorrow we leave Lake Como....


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Saturday, March 20, 2010

Milano and Varenna/Lake Como UPDATED

After a two hour layover in Atlanta, where we had some free wine and a snack in the Delta Club




we took off for Milan.We landed basically on time - we actually slept about 4-5 hours so good to go! In the Atlanta airport there were several pianists although not easy to hear, but for Katie I had to note this - this one was playing Fur Elise....





We took a bus to the Milan Train Station which is one of those gorgeous big European stations.









Train to Varenna was about an hour and left exactly on time- much of it through Milan and suburbs but then suddenly we could see the Alps and then Lake Como, a very long lake that we traveled near with lots of tunnels until Varenna came in sight.



Varenna Train station


We walked about 1/2 mile to our hotel and checked in. The view of the Alps from our room was amazing even in the clouds and fog....



Albergo Milano was a great place to stay - nice room, the owners - Egidio and Bettina were wonderful as was the rest of the staff.  Here are a few pictures of the room.



Decided to fo find some lunch and walked down to water level where we had seen a restaurant from our room. Here are a few views of the town and the restaurant.
 Just liked this one of local families


 Our restaurant Bar Il Molo - food was wonderful - described in next post.


This town was our introduction to steep, narrow streets with lots of stairs - that somehow always seem to be going up. Another feature we noticed, and we supposed for good drainage, is that the steps always slant down, making walking on them more difficult. Very old cobblestones too...









Most of the town has no automobile traffic....




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Anyone want to go visit here? We used the Rick Steves book especially..... and hey, let me know, I'll go back any time!!

Rick Steves' Snapshot Italy's Cinque Terre (Rick Steves Snapshot)   Journeys of Cinque Terre

Friday, March 19, 2010

MPLS airport

We are on our way - waiting in Minneapolis airport. It doesn't seem real that this is vacation, such a long vacation, and to Italy - maybe because, as usual, Bill is working, solving 3M issues on the phone ...




We go next to Atlanta and from there fly to Milan where we will arrive at 7:30 AM Saturday, about 1:30AM our time. Hopefully after a few hours of sleep.

Made plans today to meet our nephew in Florence on Wednesday, also to meet two Italian friends - fellow Siberian breeders.

It's supposed to rain the first few days so I went out and got a purse sized umbrella and rain hat. That and other misc things not included in our practice packing two weeks ago increased the weight of my backpack suitcase to 15 lbs from a much better 13 lbs so hopefully I'll stay strong. Felt good that mine is lighter than Bill's 25 lbs.

So on to the free food in the Delta Club.... Will update when we can.





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Wednesday, March 17, 2010

Planning a trip

We used Rick Steves books as we often have in the past to help plan our trip. Another favorite of mine is Eyewitness guides - for the historical background and the wonderful pictures...
Italy (EYEWITNESS TRAVEL GUIDE)
Rick Steves' Italy 2010 with map  


This time I also relied heavily on TripAdvisor.com - we'll let you know how that worked and will be reviewing each hotel and restaurant.
TripAdvisor: Website, Consumer Generated Media, Virtual Tourist, Cruise Critic, Seat Guru, TravelPod


I love planning trips and have spent hours researching, finding pictures and maps - the internet makes this SO much easier - years ago everything was photocopies of AAA books or other travel guides. Perhaps now the ability to get reviews from so many other travelers as well as their pictures online makes Rick Steves not as necessary but we still feel that you cannot go wrong with his recommendations.

I have all the plans online at Tripit.com so my kids know right where we are at all times. I will be finding wifi spots to upload at least short blog entries done on my iphone and limited pictures from the phone - but big update when we get back!